After more than forty years of motorcycle riding and wrenching, and more than twenty years of the restoration and construction of our personal BMW motorcycles, we, Christopher and Barbara Betjemann established Barrington Motor Works, LLC in 1999 to share what we had learned and knew about the vintage BMW motorcycle with other BMW vintage motorcycle enthusiasts. Christopher, a former emergency physician who was now retired, needed something to direct his considerable energies and abilities toward. And Barbara, a painter and Christopher's lifelong partner, shared that dream. Over the years of restoration of our own BMW motorcycles and the creation of a number of vintage BMW specials we had not only acquired and developed a significant armamentarium of skills, but had also established friendships and business relationships with many talented and experienced individuals both here and in Europe who, like us, wanted to contribute to the vintage BMW motorcycle community. Although we enjoy the restoration of vintage BMW solo and sidecar machines, we also take great interest in the building of both vintage BMW race machines and cafe machines for the street.

The cover of the soon to be published restoration and service manual for the BMW R26 and 27 single cylinder machines. Having said the above, join us and enjoy our website, seeing photographic and written essays about some of the machines that have passed through our shop, as well as learning about some of the services which we can provide to you and others in the vintage BMW motorcycle community. Except by prior arrangement, our shop is closed all weekends. Shop hours are typically Monday through Thursday 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM and Fridays 9:00AM to 4:00PM (all times Eastern Time Zone). We frequently deviate from these hours for vintage meets, days at the racetrack and pleasure riding so it is best to email or call ahead before planning a visit to the shop. Matching numbers on engine and frame Sidecar restored by F40 Motorsports Private Party or Dealer: Private Party This 1966 BMW R50/2 motorcycle is a numbers-matching bike designed from the factory for sidecar use with sidecar mounting points built into the frame and an Earles fork.

The seller purchased the BMW approximately 10 years ago and rode it for several years before sourcing a compatible Duna sidecar. He sent the sidecar to Wayne Carini’s F40 Motorsports for restoration and had it painted to match the BMW. motorcycle repairs newhavenShortly after the restoration was completed the seller was involved in a serious accident on another motorcycle and hasn’t ridden since. atvs for sale hawaii craigslistThe motorcycle and sidecar combo were never ridden, and four years later the seller has opted to sell so the next owner can enjoy them.carbon fiber motorcycle helmets shoei The bike was restored prior to the seller’s purchase and remains in excellent cosmetic condition. motorcycles for sale mcallen tx

The black paint is very nice with only minor patina and the dual Pagusa solo seats provide a great look. The chrome is in good shape with some minor wear around the speedometer trim ring. The sidecar is a Hungarian built Duna model from the early 1960s. The bodywork is aluminum for light weight and features distinctive “rocket-nose” styling. The bodywork and seat was restored to a high standard and remains in as-restored condition, having been in indoor storage since the work was done. While the sidecar is currently mounted to the bike the seller recommends it be taken to an expert before riding, as careful alignment is needed to keep the bike and sidecar stable. The 500 CC BMW flat twin is original to the bike, with matching numbers on the motor casing, frame, and data plate. The fuel tank is believed to be original as well. While the bike hasn’t been ridden in the past four years the seller runs it on a regular basis to prevent the fuel system from deteriorating due to lack of use.

The bike shows 40k miles on the odometer, though there is no way to verify that the mileage is correct. The bike is sold with a bill of sale and the Connecticut registration, as the state doesn’t issue titles for vehicles more than 20 years old. The sidecar is attached but not set up or aligned for road use. The bike runs well but the combo will need some adjustment to be safe and usable. Bid on This Car February 25, 2016 at 2:02PM PTThis page is about the alloy rims on BMW motorcycle models R26, R27, R50, R60, R69, R50/2, R60/2, R50S, R69S, R50/US, R60/US, R69US.  applies to the steel rims. This is an attempt to explain some of the confusion concerning the choice of rims used by BMW.  BMW offered both chrome plated steel and alloy, orI only watched BMWs on the show room floors from 1962 andI will only be guessing about earlier year production.  year BMW offered one type of wheel as standard and the other one was an accessory that cost $25 extra. 

One may see this on invoices from that era. Steel would be offered for a year or two and then alloy would be offered asFor a year or two the sport models (R69S and R50S) were only available in aluminum while the R50/R60 was steel as standard.  dealers kept new wheels in both types to offer up a choice to any buyer. Owners would decide to change the type of wheels and buy new ones of the otherThere are so many variables involved that without a series of invoices of each year, we will probably never figure out what was correct for The question has come up concerning the year that BMW changed from using the low lip alloy rim and started using the high lip rim.  This is of interest to restorers that care about getting it correct.  The first years (late 55 thru early 57) the alloy rims were the high lip variety.  Then they went to the low lip rims for several years.  Around 1961 BMW began using the highThe early rims have the early spoke pattern and are now

If your alloy rim isn't a Weinmann then it is not correct for a /2 BMW. Some recent aftermarket rims, reportedly from Italy, are available.  first one that I saw was as a result of taking a glance at a friendsHis spokes weren't in the correct configuration and IHe explained that it was caused by the incorrect rims. The spokes touch each other and actually bend around each other slightly. The correct rim for a BMW will have the spokes passing by each other with about 1 mm of space.  If you don't have a Weinmann rim, this page doesn't applyThe Weinmann rim can be laced up backwards, but the spokes will have to bend around each other and be crooked. A Weinmann stamped rim The low lip rim        The high lip rim If you had one of each in front of you, it would be very easy to see the difference between the two.  I found it harder to photograph.  able to stand a dime up in the groove to show the difference in radius.

The dime in the low lip rim almost "fits" into the groove.  The dime in the high lip rim doesn't drop down into the groove, and allows lots of light come Here you see it with a wire laying on the high center part of the rim. On the low lip rim it has far more distance down to the lip.  lip rim it is nearly touching the lip. The early series Earles fork BMW from 55-mid 57 has a different hub and spokeAs a result, the spokes are shorter.  More useful info onSome of the sport model R69, had a high lip rim.  rim is different than the later high lip rim due to the spoke angle etc. Little is known (by me) about this early high lip rim.  It seems that the high lip rim disappeared from mid 57 to around 61. Low lip date 7/59     High lip date 3/65 The date of manufacture is clearly stamped on the inside of the rim across the valve stem hole and in large numbers.  The latest year, so far, of a low lip rim is late 1961. 

Can someone find a later one? I think that the earliest date of a high lip rim is around 60-61.  Can you find an earlierThe high lip rim may have been introduced with the /2 series in 61, but I The size 2.15 X 18 The rim size is also stamped into the inside of the rim across from the valveIt is much smaller than the date and harder to read.  is of no significance to anybody.  As far as I know, only one size was madeTwo sizes were made in the steel rim, one for solo and wide one To restore a rim may be necessary because we just can't buy these old rimsA rim may seem to be pretty far gone and still be restorable. I think that it depends upon your standards.  I have "saved" some poor ones and here is what I have found worked for me. First I clean it off.  Now we have some great cleaners and the one that I use is Super Clean, by Castrol.  This stuff is nuclear powered and can be dangerous on some things, like your skin and respiratory tract. 

an open place and rubber gloves are advised.  It seems to be safe on metal, but on plastic, I would first try it on an "out of the way" spot. This takes off most of the road grime.  Most rims are going to need someI highly recommend doing it by hand.  You will get a much better job and cause far less damage than the job done by a buffing wheel. Some have reported the bumps for the nipples to have gotten polished down when the polisher forced the rim against the wheel trying to get into the corners. Expect to put 5 hours into the polishing part, maybe much more.  an old worn out Scotch Brite pad for gently cleaning the grime off.  must be very careful on one aspect of cleaning.  On the inside of the rim where the sidewall of the tire contacts the rim (the seating area) is a series of dents/scrapings pressed into the aluminum.  This raises the metal around the dent and makes a sharp protrusion to help grip the tire.  help keep the enormous horse power of the /2 from spinning the rim within the

That would cause the valve stem of the inner tube to get "ripped out" and it happened to me on my first BMW and on my first long trip in 62. The knurling (serrations) for gripping the tire. If these marks are still original then one can easily feel the sharp edgesBe very careful to not sand/grind/polish them down toThese tend to fill up with tire rubber compound and seem smooth. I allow the Super Clean to soak for a few minutes and then use a brush to clean the cavities and seating area.  Often one can see a large black marks on the seating area where tire rubber has gotten stuck.  It comes off easily and One of the most common things for the alloy is for it to get pitted badly. That can be cleaned off with CRL, a chemical for cleaning off calcium, rust andIt is available in any grocery store.  It will chemically get the white stuff out of the pits.  You may not want to see how deeply the After 40 years it is almost impossible for the rim to have always had a

knowledgeable owner/mechanic change tires.  This means that they didn't know about the 5 dents and how important theyOne must also pay special attention to installing the Not understanding how to change a tire on a BMW can be damaging to the rims and wheel bearings.  It is very common to badly damage a rim with the tire irons.  Here is an example of what someone has done to this high lip rim. You can see that the rim has a very bad gouge in it.  actually bent out of its circle.  The bend can be easily fixed with a press or simply clamping it in a vise.  One must do it slowly.  will ruin the rim.  The high part can be filed, sanded and polished down, but still a divot will remain.  I have no experience with having someone welding a spot to fix it. Minor damage from hitting pot holes can also be pressed out of a rim. It can often be done without removing the tire. This is another view of the same ding.  Here it doesn't look so bad.