We are The Worlds Sole Manufacturer of Genuine AMAL Carburettors and Spares. Please use our product search boxes below to find the correct Carburettor or spare part for your Motorcycle, alternatively look around our store to find a range of other accessories! Thank you for visiting! Amal Gardner Lift Pumps specialise in carburettor diaphragms, air cut-off valves [or coaster enrichment valves] carburettor overhaul kits and spares for all Japanese carbs. NRP manufacture and supply a large range of main diaphragms for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, Triumph, Aprilia, Benneli, Bimota, Beta, Cagiva, Ducati and Sachs motorcycles, as well as Vespa, Hyosung,and other scooters, only available from us. We have been producing diaphragms since 1988, and take pride in not being constrained by genuine We are the only source of many discontinued parts for older models, at much more reasonable prices. We cover Mikuni, Keihin, Hitachi, Tokei and TK Kikaki carbs

from 1970's to 00. Where as an original part the diaphragm is only available as a complete sealed unit, we offer a service where we refit a new diaphragm to your original slide. the original part can be improved to ensure long and trouble free service, this is incorporated into the design. NRP is THE UK distributer for KEYSTER carb kits, the most comprehensive carb rebuild kits available, and second to nonemotorcycle body armor philippinesALL kits include MAIN JETS, PILOT JETS, JET NEEDLE,suzuki motorcycle on installment NEEDLE VALVE[+ SEAT WHERE REMOVEABLE] FLOAT CHAMBER GASKET[ORmotorcycle parts suzuki boulevard c50 SEAL] AND MIXTURE SCREW/SPRING/O-RING plus all other carb

The Keyster carb kits cover from 1960-1990's As well as carburettor overhaul kits and fuel tap diaphragms and kits,we can supply gaskets, needle valves[float valves],jet needles, needle jets[emulsion tubes or nozzles], main jets, pilot jets seals and spares for all Japanese carbs. We also supply fuel tap or petcock diaphragms and overhaul kits for most models,where many Genuine suppliers can onlyPopular maintenance tips: Motor oil should be changed every 3,000 miles. Every 3,000 miles, check your brake, power steering and transmission fluids. An automatic battery charger should be used to keep your battery fresh when your bike is not in use. Accessories Lighting Wash & WaxFast friendly personal service, for you and your bike. At Fastlane we pride ourselves in offering personalised one on one service, to ensure your motorcycle is always performing at it’s best. We service all Japanese and European models, anything from high performance road bikes to four wheelers to scooters.

Quality maintenance for your motorcycle from basic oil and filter change to a major service, including precision engine tuning to meet manufactures specifications. Scan tool available in the workshop to re-set fault codes and tuning applications where available. We stock a range of Tyres to suit all motorcycles from a PW 50 right through to a Harley Davidson. We provide a full Tyre fitting service, re-spoking of wheels, puncture repairs for tube and tubeless tyres. We can offer expert advice on the best Tyre to suit your particular bike and individual needs. Fastlane are the motorcycle Tyre specialists, we have the tyres that are right for you! If you’re thinking of purchasing a new motorcycle why not give us a call to arrange a free inspection. One of our qualified mechanics would only be too happy to provide an external inspection of the bike for you. 81 cb900 carb adjustments i just cleaned out the carbs on my 81 cb900 custom, still not running right. my expertise with carburetors ends with taking the jets out and cleaning all the gunk out, synch the throttle plates, and i recent figured out the correct spelling of carburetor.

can anyone tell me what these adjustment screws are on the vacuum side of these carbs, circled in red. Re: 81 cb900 carb adjustments PS BLAH BLAH... did you clean out the tops of the carbs too? as well as all the little air passages? when was the last time the bike ran correctly? Im due to take my carbs off and tinker with them too so i will take pics that should be helpfull in pointing out what needs to be cleared and cleaned... Originally Posted by rdmendoza3 i took the tops off but didnt really take them apart, i tried to blow out most of the air passages with compressed air, but not knowing what most of those passages do, its like throwing darts with a blindfold. if you can get some pictures while its apart, that would be awesome also my bike is bone stock, intake exhaust and everything in between. so i dont think i should have to modify the carbs just to make it a good daily rider. although im not opposed to the idea of putting some pipes on it. i need it to run right before i start modding.

and for your other question, ive had the bike.. probably a year now. wasnt running when i got it, dont know how long it sat. and thanks everyone for your help so far, im confident ill be able to get this thing running soon. Well I tryed to load some pictures but I cant figure out how to do it... it wants me to put in a url http:// ... so im kinda stuck...lol the website wont even let me put a pic of my bike in the garage... mabe cuz im a trial member??? P.S fellas, there are several downloadable pdf service manuals free to download at.... Trust me guys, all the manuels we need are there!!!! ignore the 750 part! Originally Posted by hondabobber333 My best guess would be that something in the tranny is seizing up, clutch or gears, cuz i assume that it rolls fine in nutral right? PS, on second thought If it were me i would first try adjusting the clutch, very easy remove the plug on the right side, use a screw driver and a t handel drivr if you got it, or a socket, dont drop it in there though lol

wow ive been looking for one of these for a while, havnt really worked on the cb though, i had another project i had to get done first. Very good link, has everything i need, and clear. Your filters and exhaust are making your bike run too lean. You need to re-jet your carb with bigger jets. A quickie temp fix would be to take the caps off the top of the carbs, pull the needles out and shim them with washers to allow more fuel in. You can find washers at home depot, but they'll be too big in diameter so you have to shave them down to size. I took out an '81 CB900C I'm looking at buying from a guy, and it has the exact same issue as this. Runs great right up to ~5800-6000 rpms then bogs and sputters out till about 6500 then won't go past in any gear. The bike is cherry and has just had the valves and cams adjusted and a few valves replaced this last spring. Is this a fairly common and non-critical issue that I should pass this bike up for? I would say I could get it for around $1500