High to low rating Low to high rating Been Useing in this stuff for a little over a year on my new motorcycle, 13,000+ miles on it now no. signs of wear or tear on the chain or sprocket and seems to re-pal Dirt .. So far it's doing its job. I cleaned the chain on my bike, sprayed it down with this Chain-Saver then preceded to ride through lots of muddy conditions and the chain still looks clean... Easy to apply too! Ask any biker who has been around for a while (I've had them for over 35 years) and they will tell you this is the best of the best chain lubes. Also good for cleaning up chains. Safe with o-ring chains, too. Does not leave a sticky residue like most chain lubes -- leaves an almost dry film that adheres well. If you do much reading on bike chain lubes, this is the one you will see people say is the best over and over. Also works great on chain saws, bicycles, garage door openers, you name it if it has a chain drive. I have been using this for 10 years.

It gets into hard to reach places and dries to a wax like film. It will not fly off. It will not harm the o-rings on your chain. It does not attract dirt like oil-based products. Over spray is harmless-it's just a wax. I put over 10,000 miles a year on my bike so I give this product a good test. You will not find this at every Wal-Mart but it is available at many and it is worth the extra trip to stock up on several cans. Buy and use the 11 oz. spray can, not the small liquid bottle. The can works better, last longer, and with the included nozzle spray straw, you can pinpoint the spray. This is one of those dream products bikers always try to find. A product at Wal-Mart that is better than the bike shop products at fraction of the cost. I have 45 years of riding experience, on everything from dirt bikes to street bikes to quads/atvs. And I've never found anything that works to protect chains so effectively and cleanly as DuPont Teflon Chain Saver. Not only do my chains spin very smoothly and freely, but this stuff doesn't fling everywhere as every other chain oil did.

And as a special bonus, it doesn't allow dirt to stick to it. I recommend this product highly.Motorcycle cables are connected to the throttle and the clutch. They require routine maintenance just like every other machine, and if they are forgotten, they will eventually wear down, decreasing the efficiency of the vehicle until they eventually fail, maybe at the most inopportune time. This will give you a long walk, a difficult push home, and a potentially expensive repair bill. It is important to know what kind of cables you have before you continue with the rest of these steps and your maintenance. It is also important to do some research into the kind of lubricants you prefer. Some like to use motor oil, though it is messy and can pick up roadside dirt. A mix of powdered graphite and WD-40 also works well for a lot of motorcycles or simply ask for a recommendation at your local motorcycle shop for getting the best lubricant for your particular motorcycle's cables. You should never use chain lubricant on a cable.

Check your owner's or the shop's manual for what type of cable you have. This will tell you if they need lubricant or not. There are actually two types. motorcycles for sale around sioux falls sdThe first and oldest are made up of multiple wires and a steel style cable. skully motorcycle helmet with rear view cameraThis is the kind that must be lubricated. oldtimer motorcycles for sale usaThe other is a more recent and more technologically advanced type. motorcycle repair powell riverThese kind are lined with Teflon, and it could actually damage the cable if you lubricate it.motorcycle parts olathe ks

Unhook the cable from the lever or throttle drum at the handlebar end. Make sure you pay attention to how you unhook them so that you know exactly how to hook them up again once you have finished.bmw motorcycle dealer victoria bc Cut a 45-degree angle in the corner of the plastic sandwich bag. drag racing motorcycle philippines 2013Then, stick the end of the cable into the hole and fill the bag with the lubricant of choice. Tape it to the outside of the cable housing with the cable hanging out of it. This can also be done without the baggie if your lubricant has a needle nose that you can place into the cable. Examples of these types are Dri-Lube and Bike-Aid. Wait for the lubricant to run down the inner cable. You will know it is done when it is leaking lube on the other end.

After you have waited a few minutes, remove the bag, wipe everything down, then hook the cables back into their original position. It is important to perform basic maintenance your cables at least twice a year. This way, you will not have to worry about them detaching from your throttle or clutch on their own.Any friction or resistance within the chain can have an impact on how efficiently your power is used. In order to limit friction between the chain and the rest of the drivetrain, a lubricant needs to be applied. Studies have shown that the type of lube itself makes little difference on the efficiency of a clean chain. The real value of lubrication is to fill the gaps that would otherwise be filled by dirt and grime — things that do increase friction and decrease efficiency. So if the type of lube is unimportant for efficiency why is there so much choice? Alex Trimnell, Muc-Off’s CEO, has this advice: “Keeping your drivetrain clean and well-lubed is important for a smooth riding experience, but you need to make sure that you use the right lube for the conditions.”

>>> Winter bikes: do you really need one? But a quick glance in your local bike shop will reveal a huge range of lubes to choose from. Wet, dry, wax, ceramic are just a few of the different types on offer. So which lube should you choose? Despite the seemingly endless differences, chain lube can be broken down into just two simple categories — ‘wet’ and ‘dry’. Simon Nash of Green Oil, maker of environmentally friendly lubes explains: “Wet lube was the original lubricant of choice. Early brands used something like car engine oil. Its consistency trumped basic spray lubricants that were primarily designed to displace water. “It worked and was durable. But many cyclists on the road racing scene took to waxing chains in a frying pan. Secret formulas mixed in the kitchen often led to chains being dipped in bespoke waxy lubricants overnight. “Companies soon realised that instead of heating up wax to melt onto a chain, wax could be melted (or rather dissolved) in a solvent.

When this is applied the solvent evaporates, leaving just the wax, or ‘dry’ lubricant.” >>> This device can make your bike 12 watts more efficient Going back to Trimnell’s advice, choosing the best lube solution comes down to the conditions you ride in. Wet lubes are used in all weather conditions but really come to the fore when riding in autumn and winter as they are water resistant so won’t get washed off riding through puddles or in a rainstorm. Most wet lubes will provide efficient lubrication for over 100 miles of riding with one application. If you ride in the winter months a wet lube will resist salt corrosion. Wet lubes are also really good at reducing drivetrain noise. The downside is that the sticky nature of wet oil can attract dirt that, if left to build up, can work as a grinding paste to rapidly wear out components. It also oxidises and if left to build up ends up as thick black gunk. Using wet lube properly requires regular degreasing and cleaning of your drivetrain.

>>> Are 12-speed gears coming for road bikes? In dry, spring and summer conditions you want to use a lighter lubricant, normally a wax-based ‘dry’ lube. Dry lubes are much cleaner to use and attract less dirt build-up even with repeated application. This makes them much better in dry or dusty conditions, especially off-road or on gravel tracks. However, even a light rain shower will wash dry lube off the chain and it is less durable; an 80-mile ride in dry conditions can see lubrication drastically reduced. >>> Are electronic groupsets necessary? As Nash also points out: “Value is an issue — in a bottle of wet lube, 100 per cent of the formula will lubricate. In a dry lube, some of the formula is solvent, which is there just to aid application.” Whichever lube you prefer to use, for the best results Trimnell suggests that you leave the lube on the chain overnight before riding for maximum benefit. Now you know which to use, here’s how to use it

Regular, correct application of lube is an important process to ensure the smooth and efficient running of your bike. >>> Is it the end for the 34t chainring? The type of lube you choose to use comes down to several factors involving where and when you ride. If you are fastidious about cleaning your bike regularly, and often ride in inclement conditions, then wet lube is the right choice for you. However, for the habitually lazy or fair-weather cyclist, a dry lube is always going to be the preferred option. A wet lube from our supplier, Juice Lubes, is my default choice year round. I prefer to have a lube on the drivetrain to cover all weather. The most important thing for me is daily cleaning of the drivetrain with degreaser, thoroughly drying it to remove all moisture before reapplying more lube. This way the drivetrain is far more efficient and you gain extra life out of the whole system, along with no loss of power from the rider. Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube.