Disc brakes have become widely used for mountain biking because they provide effective stopping power in wet conditions. Unlike rubber pad brakes that provide friction against the rim of the wheel, disc brakes press ceramic or metal pads against a hardened-steel rotor to stop, which prevents brake slippage. Disc brakes may need adjustment so the rotor does not rub against the pads while riding. Mount your bicycle in a workstation so you can turn the wheels freely while you adjust the brakes. If you do not have a workstation, turn the bicycle over and balance it on its handlebars and seat. Locate the two bolts that attach the brake mechanism to the bicycle fork. One is above the calipers and one below. Insert a hex driver into one of the bolts and turn it to the left to loosen it. Loosen the other bolt as well until you can move the calipers by hand. Do not remove the bolts from the braking mechanism. Spin the wheel slowly and watch the rotor as it spins. Note how the rotor is contacting the brake pads.

Turn the calipers by hand to find the correct angle where the rotor no longer drags against the brake pads. Insert the hex driver into one of the bolts and tighten it securely, ensuring that the calipers do not move from the adjusted position. Tighten the other bolt. Spin the wheel and squeeze the brake lever to check the brake tension and alignment of the pads. While the brake lever is depressed, insert the hex driver into the brake pad adjustment bolt and adjust each pad to the desired tension against the rotor. Spin the wheel of your mounted or upside-down bicycle slowly. Watch the rotor as it spins. If the rotor passes through the calipers without touching the brake pads for most of the rotation, then drags suddenly at one point, the rotor is bent. Place a mark on the rotor at the location that is bent. Turn the wheel so the mark is 180 degrees from the calipers. Place a small, adjustable wrench on the location of the bend and tighten it around the rotor. Gently bend the rotor with the wrench in the direction of the brake pad it was not rubbing against.

Spin the wheel slowly and monitor how the rotor passes through the calipers. Gently bend the rotor more, if necessary, until it completely clears the brake pads on a full rotation.If you want to skip reading this full article, here’s the bottom line:pink leopard motorcycle helmet When you notice a noise related to braking, a difference in braking performance, or a burning smell while driving, get a brake check right away.salem wi motorcycle accident Brake servicing is one of those routine maintenance chores you just cannot ignore. motorcycles with sidecars for sale in texasBrake parts have a life span and they do need to be regularly serviced and sometimes replaced to work properly.harley davidson for sale rapid city

Fortunately, your car or truck usually gives you some clear signals that your brakes are due. Sometimes they're harmless noises that don't require repairs or have simple fixes. Your brakes are one of the most important safety components in your vehicle. motorcycle for sale quincy ilSo if you notice any of the following common warning signs of brake issues, it’s time to get a professional to check your car, truck or SUV pronto. port elgin motorcycle shopYou'll drive safer and head off more expensive damage.cafe racer for sale nebraska When one of the red or yellow brake indicators on your dashboard lights up it may mean you’re just due for an inspection. It could also be your vehicle’s smart electronics alerting you to a problem.

An engaged parking brake could also cause the light to go on. Be sure it’s fully released to confirm that’s not the issue. (And read up on what all your dashboard brake lights mean.) If you start hearing a high-pitched noise that stops when you apply the brakes that’s likely the sound of the brake pad wear indicators. They’re made of steel so they make this sound when they start contacting the rotor. They’re letting you know that your pads are worn out and need to be replaced before you get rotor damage, which can be an expensive fix. Grinding that you also feel in the pedal could mean a number of things. There could just be some gravel or a rock caught in the caliper unit, easily remedied. But you may have gone too long without brake servicing. The brake pads may be worn through, and you’re hearing metal on metal that could be creating grooves in the brake rotor. Grinding could also be an indicator of lack of lubrication in vehicles with rear drum brakes.

The brake shoe (the component that presses on the rotor to slow the vehicle) could be scraping on metal contact points like the backing plate, due to rust. If you hear any of these sounds, get your brakes looked at right away to head off more expensive problems. Shaking in the steering wheel or vibration when you apply the brakes may be the result of an uneven rotor. Brake rotors are big discs that sit inside of the wheels. When you hit the brake pedal, the brake pads hug the rotors, slowing them and your vehicle. You want rotors to be smooth and completely even in thickness. Over time and thousands of wheel revolutions, it’s normal for the rotor surface to get slight variations. Rust can also sometimes develop. During brake servicing, the face of the rotor is often trued (smoothed and evened out) to correct these flaws. This work has to be done exactly to your vehicle’s specifications. The tiniest differences in disc thickness—we’re talking thousandths of an inch, about three sheets of paper in width—can cause a wobbly feeling when you brake.

An uneven rotor surface may also cause the rotor to hit one of the brake pads as it spins, causing some of the pad material to transfer onto the rotor in that spot. Then you’ll feel shaking when braking, as the pad hits that bump in the rotor. Another possible cause of rough braking is the brake caliper not releasing properly. The job of a brake caliper is to squeeze the brake pads against your brake rotors, which slows your vehicle down. It’s the motion of the piston inside the caliper unit that causes this contact. Due to wear from heat or road debris, the piston can get sticky. It may not retract the pads back into the full “off” position when you let up on the brake pedal. A fourth cause of bumpy braking could be damage to your brake components from improper wheel lug nut installation. (The lug nuts are the big bolts that clamp your tire and wheel onto the hub of your car.) Any time tires are removed, it’s crucial for the lug nuts to be put back on in the right order, evenly, at just the right tightness (torque).

It has to be done in a star pattern, with just the right pressure. If not, you’ll get uneven, premature rotor wear and be back for service sooner rather than later. If you’re experiencing a soft brake pedal, have a service technician look for fluid leaking from the master cylinder or elsewhere in the brake system. The master cylinder is the unit that creates the power for your brakes. It has a reservoir like the one for your wiper fluid that contains brake fluid. When you apply the brakes, this fluid is pushed through thin piping, creating hydraulic pressure. If fluid is leaking from this system, there may not be enough power to force the brake pads to clamp hard to the rotors. If you notice a difference in the resistance in the brake pedal—it feels “softer,” or sinks all the way to the floor mat when you press on it—it’s a sign you need immediate service. There could be air or moisture in the braking system or a problem with the master cylinder. Generally, in autos with power brakes the pedal should stop 1 to 1 ½  inches from the floor.

If you have manual brakes, the pedal should stop more than 3 inches from the floor. This could be caused by a brake hose gone bad or a caliper problem. One brake caliper may be applying more or all the pressure during braking, resulting in unbalanced stopping. A sharp, chemical odor after repeated hard braking on steep roads is a sign of overheated brakes or clutch. Pull over immediately in a safe place, check your parking brake to make sure it’s fully released and allow the brakes to cool. If you don’t, you risk heating up the brake fluid to boiling, which can cause brake failure. If there’s any smoke coming from a wheel, it may be  a stuck brake caliper and possibly unsafe to continue driving on without repairs. If your vehicle rocks or bounces with sharp braking, it’s probably not a brake problem at all. Your shock absorbers may need to be replaced. Not every brake noise or symptom is going to cost you. It could be a harmless squeak from certain types of material in brake pads.