Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair I have a 2005 GSXR 600 I'm getting on the road. I bought an Ohlins rear shock for it and ordered the spring to match my weight. I can't figure out the low/high speed or the rebound/compression dampening. I'm wondering how I adjust all of that? Is there a rebuild procedure for these shocks? How do I do the baseline setup of the shock? motorcycle suspension suzuki shock-absorber gsxr In terms of rebuilding the shock, there are similarities between models but there are unique differences between them that make it impossible to review all of the nuance. I'll only give a high level response to the rebuilding component. I'm wondering how I adjust all of the that? You should have a very beautiful and nicely printed booklet providing instructions for the various settings, spring selection, maintenance and installation. It would look something like this. Depending on the model of shock, you indicated you have a nitrogen shock, the location of the setting dials are on the top, the piggyback or the remote bladder on the end of the steel braided line.

See page 7 of the PDF. Compression Dampening - At the top of the shock, the piggyback or remote unit. High speed compression dampening is always adjusted by the nut with a 12mm wrench or the dial on the higher end models. The screw in the middle of the dial or the nut is always for low speed dampening. Turning the screw or nut clockwise always increases the dampening and counter-clockwise always decreases the level of dampening. Rebound Dampening - This is at the bottom of the shock and should be a dial or a nut. It's wrapped around the piston shaft which moves in and out of the shock body. It's mounted on the shock body. Shock Length - This can be at the top or bottom of the shock depending on the model. You will see the lock nut pair on the shaft to adjust length. In the image below it has a blue anodized nut. Spring Pre-load - Adjusted with the very nice spanner wrench that should have come with the shock. Decreasing spring length increases pre-load and stiffness.

You can get kits for your model. Oil seals, bladder, rubber bumper, oil and ball joints. I always use the Ohlins recommended and branded oil. Inspection points - From the Ohlins website and linked pdf Check ball joints for excessive play - each end of the shock Check the piston shaft/rod for leaks and dings Check the external reservoir for damages that can restrict the floating piston from moving freely Excessive wear of rubber components Check that the shock absorber is securely fastened to the vehicle. Check the hose equipped models for leaks on the hose and inlet plugs. Of course, in general look for dirt building up on oil that may be emerging from the shock itself. You can get the shock charged at a shop, buying the nitrogen and the equipment to charge it without blowing out the seals is cost prohibitive. Repair Manual for 2006 Models I included this because I'm going to make the leap you procured from Ebay. 2006 models are cheaper and they made them for your bike and the 750 and 1000.

The differences are in the shim stack and the spring you would get to go along with it.vespa for sale bangkok This is a novel within itself. motorcycle sales newmarket ontarioHere is a video. best motorcycle routes in peiThis guy does pretty good. motorcycle drive chain rattleHe shows measuring points, sag setup, etc.2nd hand motorcycle for sale in batangas If you don't have Ohlins forks and are going to stick with stock, see about a cartridge replacement from Racetec.motorcycle shop cody wy

Look at the diagram in this post regarding the cartridge. The shim stack in the diagram is what makes these USD's tuneable and rebuildeable. Don't think about the nitrogen charged forks, they're as much as your car. Take a suspension clinic at a track day, they have them at almost all of them. Take it easy on your first few rides. The bike will feel different because it is. Don't hammer through any high speed corners out of the gate. Take it easy, get a feel, learn more and tweak on it. Here's a reference for you to get an idea of what you are dealing with regarding oil flow. If you understand the oil flow then you can begin to understand what you are actually adjusting, which is essentially a needle inside a shim stack. Think Needle Jet/Jet Needle, right?Browse other questions tagged motorcycle suspension suzuki shock-absorber gsxr or ask your own question.the motorcyclist on a motorcycle. With the exception of a custom-built machine, most motorcycles are designed to fit as wide a variety of body types as possible.

Unfortunately, some riders may still have trouble planting their feet solidly on the ground while at a standstill. To compensate for this, the motorcycle's rear suspension can be lowered, bringing the seat height closer to the ground. There are many ways to do this, but be sure to select a method that is attainable for your skill set and budget. Reduce the rear shock absorber's preload adjustment. This adjustment changes the amount of compression placed on the shock absorber's spring and can be adjusted on most motorcycles by turning the shock absorber's threaded collar with a spanner wrench. To reduce the preload and lower the rear suspension height, turn the collar counterclockwise. Replace the rear shock absorber's stock linkage with an aftermarket lowering link. The link connects the shock absorber to the motorcycle's rear swing arm; replacing it with a lowering link changes the rear swing arm's angle to lower the rear end of the motorcycle. Installing an aftermarket link is a labor-intensive ordeal, requiring the motorcycle to be lifted off of the ground to disassemble the shock absorber and its link.

Replace the shock absorbers with a set of shorter shocks. This method is ideal for older motorcycles or cruisers that use twin rear shock absorbers, and can be done using parts taken from other motorcycles or new aftermarket components. Some aftermarket shock absorbers can lower the rear end of the motorcycle by up to 2 inches. Lower your front forks to compensate for the change in your motorcycle's rear ride height. Adjust the shock absorber's compression and rebound damping to improve its responsiveness to bumps and road surface irregularities. A lowered motorcycle is more likely to drag its frame, exhaust or foot pegs while in a turn. Use caution to avoid a loss of control that could result in a crash. Lowering your motorcycle's rear suspension will also alter its steering geometry and affect the suspension's ability to handle changing road conditions. After completing the project, ride your motorcycle carefully until you are aware of these changes. "The Professional Motorcycle Repair Program;"

Professional Career Development Institute; Sportrider Magazine: The Long And Short Of It--Lowering Your Bike Safely "101 Sportbike Performance Projects;" Photo Credit the motorcyclist on a motorcycle. You May Also Like If your Suzuki motorcycle sits too high, you can lower your suspension for a more comfortable ride and easier handling. Motorcycles are popular vehicles to customize because they're very basic machines and can be very enjoyable to drive. One popular modification to... Even though Suzuki's GSX-R600 sport bike is better suited for smaller riders -- fitting nearly anyone under 6 feet tall -- some... Lowering the shocks on your motorcycle may be for style or comfort. In some instances it may be necessary in order for... Although motorcycle riders with shorter legs may appreciate the ability to plant both feet solidly on the ground at a standstill, custom... The lower suspension on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle consists of a swing arm bolted to the frame, and one or two gas-filled shocks...