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Whether you’re reveling in the freedom of the open road, or working long hours on your feet, find the right riding, casual and work boots to keep you protected without sacrificing edge. From motorcycle boots to steel toe shoes, Harley-Davidson® leather boots bring attitude and performance to your fearless lifestyle.As an international school teacher in Saudi Arabia, I want to bust a myth: Saudi Arabia, in my opinion, is not a hardship posting. Particularly, it is often portrayed as being extremely challenging for women, but some of the scare stories are inaccurate. For example, women can ride around in a taxi without a chaperone, and there are increasing numbers of women working in Saudi now. Indeed there are huge numbers of well-educated Saudi women completing university. The country is undoubtedly changing. As a long-term expatriate I find myself getting irritated by the way that the kingdom is often misrepresented by Western mainstream journalism and television news. It gets little coverage except when there is a bad news story, such as perceived human rights violations, or a story about women not being allowed to drive.
My adventure as a school leader working in international schools began in Jakarta, Indonesia, where I met my wife, Wija, and we had our daughters, Laurie and Luana. Since then I have worked in Oman and, most recently, Saudi Arabia. The experiences that you gain working overseas are fantastic and it is certainly not something you just put up with to save money. Learning about new cultures, visiting different places and working with local people – as well as expatriates from all around the world – broadens your perspective and makes you more open-minded. In Saudi, surely more than anywhere else, the saying "When in Rome, do as the Romans do" applies. That doesn’t mean you have to adopt habits and attitudes that might seem totally alien and unappealing. But if you can survive on the roads and laugh at the racetrack-approach to driving: the reversing at speed, the overtaking left and right and the total non-use of indicators, then you might find Saudis are friendly, generous and hospitable people and not like the stereotypes you might have been presented with.
Certainly someone coming to work or live in Saudi should do their homework and come mentally prepared, but look carefully at their sources of information because they may well not be balanced. If you really can’t manage without night clubs and bar culture, then clearly this is a place to be avoided. • Expat guide to Saudi Arabia: schools However, if you are open to discovering the delights of Middle-Eastern cuisine, a different lifestyle, a much more varied landscape than you might have imagined; if you like the heat and can manage without the rain; then you might find Saudi Arabia has great appeal. I discovered some new favourite foods too. Before living in the Middle East I didn’t like eating dates, but that is because they didn’t have any relationship to the quality of dates available in Saudi Arabia. There are many different kinds, but my preferences are the dark, Madina dates, which are not too sweet. The other thing that I got to like was the za'atar – a flavouring mixed from oregano, thyme, salt and sesame, which is smothered on breads and croissants.
The local hammour fish is also fantastic. • Home-made za'atar recipe • Hunting a taste of the Middle East in London Surprisingly, supermarkets, with brilliant names such as Danube, Manuel and Hyper Panda, sell a vast array of cheap and good local fruit and vegetables, as well as wonderful dates, Red Sea fish, camel milk, and reasonably priced imported meat from Australia and Brazil. I found Saudi a relatively easy place to live in, but I had already experienced long stints as an expat. I had learnt a lot about patience and dealing with frustration – and through my work at an international school, teaching Saudi students the International Baccalaureate, I learnt a lot about Arab culture. But do not take my word for it, there are many expatriates who stay in Saudi for a long time, or even return, and men and women do adjust and enjoy their lives here. Jeddah is a pleasant city to live, with a pleasant climate. There are some excellent compounds, like the one we lived on, which are very comfortable.
You are free to live life in a very similar style to how you live at home and you are not cooped up in your compound all weekend. There are plenty of private beaches, corniche cafés and restaurants. Expats enjoy Jeddah because of the sunshine, the swimming pool lifestyle and the safety. For families, particularly with young children, it can be a great adventure. Despite the caution and slow adaptation to embracing tourism – there is still no tourist visa yet – Jeddah is a cosmopolitan city with many nationalities of expats. There are vast contrasts and discrepancies in income and housing, however. There are impoverished areas of the city while the swankiest homes are the size of five-star hotels with gardens full of pet tiger cubs and preening peacocks. While Muscat in Oman (my previous posting) seemed very British, Jeddah has many American influences: in the restaurants, such as Applebee’s, TGI Friday's and Ruby Tuesday, not to mention the penchant for American classic cars.
It is a common sight to see an old Chevy or Lincoln chugging around the streets as well as a new Dodge weaving through the traffic. • Living in Qatar with children: the pros and cons There is also a thriving Harley Club, which parks up outside Starbucks at weekends. The Harley Club cuts across cultures and is a combination of Arab and Western riders who drive across the magnificent landscape together and share coffee and tales of adventure. The frustrating aspects of Jeddah, such as the restaurants and shops closing for prayer times and the apparent conservatism and conformism, are really a matter of perspective and mindset. If you embrace and enjoy what is different and new, you will find interest in the same things that perhaps were maddeningly frustrating at first. Saudi might not suit some – but I would certainly consider returning in future. For now though, it is off to Dubai for my family and I, for a different chapter in our love affair with the Middle East.