It’s the perfect time of year to check out those rubber hoops to make sure your tires are grippin’ and not slippin’ on cold, wet, winter riding surfaces. For motorcyclists, it may not always be glaringly obvious when your tires are beat, so here are a few key indicators to let you know when you need new tires on your bike. Barring anything obvious like a punctured or damaged tire, the first indication a rider usually gets that his or her tires are tired is a change in the feel of their rubber on the road or riding surface. Worn-out motorcycle tires will feel sloppier in the corners and lose traction more easily in twisties that you could blast through in the past. If you are feeling a difference in the performance of your bike, take a close look at your tires for telltale signs. If you see any fabric or tire cord exposed through the rubber, your tire is not safe to ride on. If you still have a good layer of rubber, the next step is to check out the tread depth. Most tires in production today have little raised rubber bars built into their design, called tread wear indicators (TWI), that show you when your tread depth reaches the recommended replacement threshold (usually around 1.6mm [1/16th inch] for street tires, off-road tires are more subjective).

These indicators are generally made obvious on your tires’ sidewalls with arrows pointing to their locations or the initials “TWI” pointing to these bars. Your tread wear indicator looks like a raised band of rubber inside of the tread groove, and usually wraps all the way across the width of the tire. When your tread is worn down to the level where it is even with this raised band, this means it is time for new tires. used motorcycles for sale by owner broward countyIf you aren’t looking for these indicators, they may not be obvious to you, so go take a look and see if your tires are equipped with raised bumps between the threads.best motorcycle helmet for $150 If you can’t locate any tread wear indicators on your motorcycle tires, not to worry. motorcycle tires newcastle

You can use a sophisticated, high-tech electronic tread wear indicator… or you can check the depth of your tread with a penny! Just place a penny upside down into your remaining tread groove, and if you can see the very top of Lincoln’s hair, it’s time to shop for a new set of motorcycle tires. So your tires passed the tread-wear-indicator or penny test... you’re good to go, right? motorcycle parts youngstown ohioDue to the curved surface of your motorcycle tires, the patch of rubber that actually contacts the pavement at any given time changes. When you’re cruising in a straight line, only the very center 1-4” strips of your tires are touching the ground. When you lean into a turn, the areas closer to the edge of your tires begin to take on the weight and forces of your bike’s travel. Often, this can result in uneven wear. The most common form of uneven wear on motorcycle tires is a condition called “flat spots.”

Flat spots are typically in the central strip of the tire, where you contact the pavement in a straight line. Flat spots can also form on the edges of your tires from leaning into your turns since we each lean at about the same angle every turn, even though every turn is different (we get comfortable with certain corner entry speeds and angles, and our muscle memory tends to favor particular angles over time). These flat spots occur more quickly in underinflated tires, but are almost inevitable in most types of street riding. If the profiles of your tires are becoming more and more squared-off, you are getting flat spots and should start thinking about some new hoops. Another form of uneven tire wear is known as “cupping” or, more accurately, “scalloping.” This is when the leading edge of each tread groove becomes rounded and dull, and the trailing edges of each groove take on raised, sharp-looking edges. Scalloping is a result of the extreme forces being exerted on the tire during hard cornering and braking.

You can demonstrate this effect by taking a brand-new pencil eraser and dragging it hard in one direction across a table. You will see how the leading edge takes the brunt of the force and dulls, while the trailing edge retains its sharper edge. Some riders worry that scalloping is an indication of poorly adjusted suspension components, but this is not the case. Scalloping just means that you have really been tearing up the twisties, but it also means that it is time for new rubber. Checking the Born-On Date Even if your tires are groovy with no uneven wear and plenty of tread, there is one more factor to consider, especially if you purchased a used bike with tires already on it. That factor is age. If you didn’t buy your tires or you can’t remember when you did, check for the production date. Among the numbers stamped on your sidewall, one of them indicates the “born-on date” for your tire. It won’t look like a standard date, but rather a simple three- or four-digit code like “4702.”

The first two digits indicate the week the tire was made, and the last two digits indicate the year. For our example, that tire would have been made during the 47th week of 2002 (tires made prior to 2000 have only 1 digit for the year). The general rule-of-thumb is to avoid riding on a tire over six or seven years old. For example, if you see the number 1910, your tire isn’t really over 100 years old, it means it was born during the 19th week of 2010. Check out our huge selection of tires for all kinds of powersports machines at Motorcycle Superstore. We have a massive assortment of tires in stock, and with our Preferred Installer Program, you can have your tires shipped straight to a professional tire installer in your area. Tires are perhaps the most important component on any motorcycle. They are the key to performance, comfort and safety. Without proper tires and routine inspection and maintenance, our motorcycles aren’t going anywhere. Use this tire guide to learn some of the basics about how motorcycle tires function, their construction and how to choose the right tire for your bike.

Your engine performance and chassis are only as good as the tires that put the power to the ground and keep you planted in those corners. No matter the rider or riding style, from heavy baggers to ultra-fast liter bikes, the correct tire is literally what keeps the good times rollin’.Whether you are replacing a set of worn-out tires or upgrading to improve performance, it is important to know what the specifications of the tires are for your specific bike and how to match the specifications against those of the tires you are considering. Out of the gate we’ll be getting familiar with the basic parts that make up a tire. Tread: The most obvious part of the tire people see is the tread, this is where rubber meets the road. You’ll find a variety of tread patterns depending on the intended use for that tire. Carcass: This is the backbone of the tire that lies underneath the tread. Essentially, the carcass is made of steel or fiber cords that run from bead to bead. Every tire is either a bias ply or radial ply, which is a MAJOR distinction.

Bias plies are laid at an angle (bias) in a direction, whereas radial plies are laid directly from side to side. We will discuss the benefits of each a bit later. Bead: The bead is where the tire mounts to the wheel. Multiple steel cords are placed in these areas to ensure a snug fit against the wheel and no leakage in a tubeless tire. Sidewall: This is where the vital tire information is displayed, however the sidewall is much more important than just an indicator. Virtually all the load support and much of the handling is determined by the sidewall design. As motorcycle engines and chassis have advanced, so have tires. Traditionally, motorcycle tires were bias ply, which means the carcass was made up of body cords at an angle directionally. Flash forward to the present, and you’ll see a radial design in many tires, where plies are laid from bead to bead instead. This leads to many advantages:• Heat dissipation: Radial tires displace heat better, which increase longevity and improved wear• Sidewall Flexibility: By construction, radial tires sidewalls are not stiff as bias-ply tires.

This allows the sidewalls to contour to the road better, improving surface area to the section or tread. Bias-ply tires are still sticking around, but for good reason. Due to the stiffer sidewalls, bias-ply tires come standard on many heavy cruisers and touring bikes. The lack of flex works well for bikes designed to carry passengers and/or luggage. Now that we’re familiar with the tire construction, the next step is learning how to decode the sidewall information. Most of what you need to know is molded right into the tire’s sidewall in either metric or alphanumeric. Let’s dissect a typical metric sidewall designation example: 130/90 R 16 67 H 130 indicates the tire is 130mm wide at its widest point when installed and ready to ride. This is referred to as “section width.” 90 indicates the tire’s sidewall aspect ratio; which is 90 percent as tall as measured as it is wide, or 117mm in this example. The lower the aspect ratio, the shorter the sidewall if section width remains unchanged.

For this example, R stands for radial ply. If the carcass design was bias, it would be indicated as “B”. 16 indicates the wheel diameter in inches the tire is designed to fit. In this case a 16-inch wheel. In this case, 67 is the load index designation. In this example 67 informs the consumer that the tire’s maximum load capacity is 661 lbs. (see chart) In our case, H is the designated rating, which means the tire is suitable for speeds up to 130 MPH. Alpha Numeric- MT 90 – 16 Load Range BAlpha numeric is very similar to metric. The first letter always is M, for “Motorcycle.” However the second letter is important which represents the width or section. Like metric, the number following the section width is the aspect ratio. Like metric again, the next number is wheel size followed by load rating. With your new-found understanding on sidewall information, finding a replacement tire can be quite the undertaking. With a seemingly endless amount of options, you might be asking yourself what you’ve gotten yourself into.

The best option is actually perhaps the simplest option, sticking with what came stock on your bike. Motorcycles were designed and developed with a specific tire size, so altering the ply style or load rating can be unsafe and not handle properly. Possibly the most overlooked preventative motorcycle maintenance is checking the air pressure. Not only can under or over inflation be unsafe and cause unpredictable handling, millage decreases as well. When your tires are over inflates the middles section tends to wear faster than the sides of the section. When under inflated, the inverse is true, and your sides will wear disproportionality to the middle section.Here are a few tire pressure tricks to ensure longevity and safety out on the road: 1. Use Suggested Pressure: Always abide to suggested tire pressure indicated on the side wall for proper pressure. If you are going to carry lots of luggage or a passenger, we suggest adding a bit more pressure being sure not to exceed the tire pressure indicated on the sidewall of your tire.2.

Get yourself a good gauge: Cheap $5 gauges found at the checkout counter of a NAPA can be a decent tool to have, but a quality tire pressure gauge will be much more accurate. Tire performance is heavily tied to pressure, and even a few PSI can drastically effect handling. Always check pressure when the tire is cold (not immediately after you get off).3. Check pressure frequently: Anywhere from daily to weekly will serve you fine. Really, the conditions and amount you ride should dictate how often you check your pressure, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry! Many bikes come with a tube type tire, and if yours does, it is important to install a fresh new tube with every tire change. Do not try and fit a tubeless tire on a tube type wheel, as the bead will not likely seal properly, which will ultimately leak. Finding the right size tube is a simple procedure if you know your tire size. In metric sizing, tube sizes are indicated as such: 110/90 (where the first number is width and the second number being the aspect).

Alpha: MP85 (First letter is always M for “motorcycle”, second letter is the section width, and the number represents aspect ratio). It’s tempting to look at your tread and think, “she ain’t bald, there’s tons of tread left on those bad boys.” But in reality, your tires don’t have to bald, to be out of commission. Here are a couple of things to inspect if it’s been a while between fresh hoops: 1. Tread Depth: To eliminate the guess work, manufactures incorporate wear bars that run across the tread. Once the wear bars are flush with the tread, it’s time to replace. Another easy trick is use the old penny technique. Placing a penny in the tread, if Honest Abe’s head is covered in some degree, your tires likely have some life in them. There should be at least 2/32” of tread in any area. 2. Age: As a rule of thumb, no matter the tread wear, a tire’s active life span should not exceed five years. Some people suggest a tire’s life is done five years after manufactured date, however we feel it’s safe to extend that to 10 years.

3. Cracking: Like most things, tires are not immune to sunlight, and if your tires have been exposed for long periods of time, you might experience cracking on the tread or along the sidewalls.4. Cuts and Punctures: Frequently check for any cuts or punctures in your tire. 5. Loosing Pressure: Since you’re checking your pressure frequently, you’ll notice if a tire continues to loose pressure too rapidly. If this is happening, your bead may be worn out and leaking air. 6. Feeling Odd: Sometimes the best way to spot a worn tire is in your hands. If you notice vibrating, pushing, pulsating or any unnatural sensation when riding, it could be your tires. 7. Under-inflation or over-inflation can lead to uneven wear (mentioned above). You will find excessive wear in the center or sides of the tire if not aired up properly (shown here). That’s it for our basic motorcycle tire buyer’s guide. Hopefully with the knowledge you’ve gained you can take the right steps towards buying the best tire for your bike and needs!