"Even today the original Yamaha YZF-R1 is a sports tool to be reckoned with" 998cc  -  150 bhp 38 mpg  -  150 miles range Insurance group: 16 of 17 Compare insurance quotes now Medium seat height (815mm) Used: £2,000 to £35,000 See all YAMAHA R1s for sale The third and final great sports bike of the nineties. The FireBlade set the agenda, the 916 added finesse and the Yamaha YZF-R1 topped them off with extra power and madness. Even today the original Yamaha YZF-R1 is a sports tool to be reckoned with and updated Yamaha YZF-R1s are even more potent and easier to use too. The Yamaha YZF-R1 is a track bike to demolish rivals and wring the rider’s adrenal glands dry. The original 98-99 model was the liveliest and hardest to tame. Later Yamaha YZF-R1s were easier to pilot but don’t think that means they’re soft in any way. The original Yamaha YZF-R1 was slightly hard to turn into corners and could run wide. Later versions were improved with a stiffer headstock and firmer forks.

Evoultion at it’s finest – the technology’s not hugely changed since the FZR1000 of 1989 but the Yamaha YZF-R1 has always delivered a minimum of 150bhp (130 at the wheel). Torque is never in short supply and the bike’s light weight makes the most of both. The Yamaha YZF-R1's gearbox can be a little reluctant. No major problems and finish is much better than early/mid 90s Yamahas. Beware race/track Yamaha YZF-R1s which have been thrashed. Problems with the gearbox are very rare despite internet rumours suggesting otherwise. The black finish on the frame and swingarm of 2003/03 Yamaha YZF-R1s rubs off easily. The Yamaha YZF-R1 was top dog sports bike until the GSX-R1000 appeared in 2001. Parallel imports and stiff competition from Honda and Suzuki mean prices stay sensible. But equally there’s no such thing as a good, clean, cheap Yamaha YZF-R1 – they’re a desirable bike and good ones always sell. Honda’s FireBlade from 2002 onwards is a comparable machine and the GSX-R arguably better.

Find a Yamaha R1 for saleInsurance group: 16 of 17 – compare motorcycle insurance quotes now. Extra equipment on a race rep just ads weight so the Yamaha YZF-R1’s pretty minimal. Comfort’s pretty good for a rider although Yamaha YZF-R1 pillions must be brave. Headlights are effective even if the mirrors aren’t brilliant. There’s some underseat storage too unlike later Yamaha YZF-R1s where exhausts occupy that space – although from 2002 it’s minimal. Dunlop Q3 Sportmax Rear Tires Videos Dunlop Sportmax Q3 Tires Review Dunlop Sportmax Q3 Rear Tires The Dunlop Sportmax Q3 is the next-generation sport bike tire and successor to Dunlop's popular Q2 tire, featuring Dunlop’s new Carbon Fiber Technology (CFT) which incorporates carbon fiber reinforcements into the sidewall. The Dunlop Q3 Sportmax also features an updated tread pattern with longer grooves to better evacuate water which helps wet weather performance and Dunlop's Intuitive Response Profile (IRP) for phenomenal handling and steering grip and feel.

IRP provides a larger, more consistent contact patch as you lean into corners, as well as linear steering and handling at various lean angles. motorcycle tow dolly canadaIRP tires also offer phenomenal steering and handling characteristics thanks to a taller profile along with sides that taper in more aggressively.motorcycle tires everett wa The new Sportmax Q3 represents yet another direct benefit yielded from Dunlop’s AMA Pro Road Racing involvement. motorcycle repair humble txAs the control tire supplier for AMA Pro Road Racing, Dunlop invested in new tire-producing machinery necessary to accommodate race tire production at Dunlop’s Buffalo, NY, manufacturing facility. motorcycle helmet wellington nz

These same high-tech machines are used to produce the all-new Q3 rear tire. Dunlop’s Carbon Fiber Technology (CFT) uses carbon fiber reinforcement in the tire sidewalls for exceptional cornering performance and feel Aggressive new Dunlop Q3 tread pattern uses fewer grooves that are longer in length to enhance wet-weather performance Intuitive Response Profile™ (IRP) technology in the rear tire allows greater latitude in line choice while cornering, plus amazingly linear steering MT Multi-Tread™ technology in the rear tire uses a tough, long-wearing compound in the center of the tread for excellent traction and longer tread life, plus special lateral grip compounds for outstanding grip Dunlop tires with MT technology incorporate a tough, cool-running long-wearing compound in the center of the tread to provide enhanced straight-line stability and excellent traction under acceleration, plus long tread life New Q3 tire compounds were derived from road-race compounds to yield maximum sportbike performance

The Dunlop Sportmax Q3 offers superb grip, stability, steering feel and longevity on the street and on the track Designed, tested and manufactured in America, the Dunlop Q3 sets new standards for high-performance sport tires Dunlop Tire Tips (pdf) Rear / 180/55ZR17 73W Rear / 190/50ZR17 73W Rear / 190/55ZR17 75W Rear / 160/60ZR17 69W Rear / 200/50ZR17 75W Rear / 240/40ZR18 79W See our full Return Policy for all of the pertinent details.Gear the engine to just touch the limiter The above link is a gearing chart based on information provided by the community. It is maintained and edited by the community to help new racers get dialed in quicker and have more fun! Please use all the information provided, and please provide information if you have knowledge. 600cc Mciro Sprint                             1000cc Mini Sprint                                  750cc Mini Sprint Yamaha '06-'17 R6                                        Yamaha '04-'13 R1

Kawasaki '07-'13 ZX-6R                               Kawasaki '05-'06 ZX-10R Suzuki '06-'17 GSX-R600                             Suzuki '09-'13 GSX-R1000                         Suzuki '06-'13 GSX-R750 Suzuki '04-'05 GSX-R600                             Suzuki '05-'08 GSX-R1000                         Suzuki '04-'05 GSX-R750 Suzuki '01-'03 GSX-R600                             Suzuki '01-'04 GSX-R1000                         Suzuki '01-'03 GSX-R750 Honda '89-'01CR250                                   Suzuki '89-'95 RM250 Honda '96-'99 CR125                                  Suzuki '97 RM250 Honda '85 CR125                                        Yamaha '79 YZ250F Air Cooled Kawasaki '79-'82 KX250                             Yamaha YZF250 4stroke

How to Use a Gearing Chart Use the information in the gearing charts above to determine front and rear sprocket combinations. The numbers in the charts represents the final drive ratio. This gearing ratio or final drive ratio, is the number of times the crankshaft turns to every one turn of the rear axle. he formula for calculating this is very straight forward, it is simply final drive ratio= primary x secondary x tertiary ratio Primary ratio = crankshaft to main transmission shaft ratio, # of teeth on the trans shaft divided by # of teeth on crank shaft Secondary ratio = the ration between the gears in the transmission, these of course will be different for each gear that you have in the transmission. Tertiary ratio = the rear rear sprocket # of teeth divided by the front sprocket # of teeth so a 13 - 51 sprocket combination = a 3.923 ratio. For example, if you are running in third gear and you need to add a tooth but don’t have the sprockets to do it you may be able to use second gear.

or a different combination with a different front tooth sprocket. Just find the same ratio you want in another combination, and the chart will tell you which sprockets use. It also can be used to find a ratio between two teeth, look in different area of the chart to find different ratios that might fall in between two sprockets. "Does it matter which gear I run in and does it matter which size front sprocket I use?" It does not matter which gear you use or what size front sprocket, the final drive ratio is all that matters. If a smaller front sprocket made you come off the corners better, we would all be running 6 tooth front sprockets. "but my car comes off the turn a lot better in 2nd gear than third" I'll say it again, the final drive is all that matters, I have won a lot of races using 6th gear on a small track, now it takes some funky sprockets to make that work, like maybe an 11-60, but it works the same as running in 2nd gear with a say a 16-47. The engine and rear axle only know how many times the crankshaft turns relative to how many times the rear axle turns.

Now, let me make another statement here, there may be some slight advantage to running larger front sprockets because the chain does not have to wrap as tight and may be more efficient, but on the dyno it does not show an advantage. Also a bigger sprocket, front and back adds some rotating weight. Again, these effects seem to be so small it does not matter. Tire Size Does Matter There is a simple formula for figuring out how a different size tire will affect the gearing. Rear tires can be inconsistent in diameter, so you need to take in to account how it will affect your gearing when you change tire sizes in your micro/mini sprint, even from a 68" to a 69". Lets take a common example of changing from a Hoosier 69W tire to an American Racer 70" tire (which actually measures more like 71"). Old Tire Size/New Tire Size = New Sprocket/Old Sprocket or (New Tire/Old Tire) x Old Sprocket=New Sprocket Lets say you were running a 52 tooth rear sprocket and you are changing from a 69" to a 71" right rear tire:

So you have to go up at least one tooth maybe two teeth on the rear due to the 3" increase in right rear tire circumference. It does not appear to me that the left rear affects the gearing, at least not nearly as much as the right rear does. Comparing Ratio of Differnet Engines If you switch engine models or manufacturers or you are trying to compare what gear you are running compared to your friend who has a different type engine, there is a formula to do just that. Due to different rev limiters, the final drive gear ratio will be differnt for each type engine. Here is the formula: (New RPM Limit/Old RPM Limit) x Old Ratio = New Gearing Ratio Generally we try to gear our engines so we just hit the rev limiter at the end of the straight. If you have a rev limiter that is not stock and it higher than where you actually want to rev your engine, then use the RPM of your desired max rev limit. On 600's make sure you are using an good high tensile strength chain like the DID VX Gold O-ring Chain.

Cheap chains may not even last one race. There is a very wide quality range of chains available on the market. To answer your question I am going to talk only about the chain we sell. Also, do not use a master link on your chain, it WILL fall off. Use a Rivet Link. Yes these are harder to install, but done correctly, it will never fall off and is as strong as the other links in the chain. You know the old saying... Generally, the chain listed above will last at least 40 races if maintained correctly and it never fell off the sprockets or got twisted or something weird like that. How to maintain a chain: How to set chain tension on a wishbone chassis: To properly set chain tension, the car needs to be setup (rear axle square, blocked, and turns set) and on the ground race ready. First align the rear sprocket with the front sprocket with a straight edge on the rear sprocket. You may need to adjust the panhard bar to align, or if far off, move the sprocket carrier on the rear axle by swapping spacers.