WD-40 was first used by the military in the '50s to clean up Atlas missile parts. Today, it's used by people everywhere to clean up virtually everything in need of a gleam. But don't go spraying the stuff just anywhere. WD-40 can cause more harm than good to certain household items. The DIY enthusiasts at Stack Exchange chime in. It seems like WD-40 can be used to lubricate just about any moving metal part. But is this true? Are there instances when WD-40 can be harmful? — sharptooth (originally asked here)WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver.The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last. WD-40 can be a good substance to start with — it can help clean up rust or other grime. But depending on what you're working with, you should probably follow up WD-40 with use of a true lubricant such as one based on silicone, grease, Teflon, or graphite.— Answered by Cody C

Firearms - You should never use WD-40 to clean or maintain firearms. WD-40 is hygroscopic and will attract moisture to the firearm which will result in rust. Drive chains of any type - Because WD-40 isn't a lubricant, it really will not work well on drive chains of any type. Gears of any type - WD-40 doesn't have enough lubrication affect to be useful on any type of gearing. Only specified gear lubricants should be used in this case. Never JUST use WD-40 on door hinges or anything you want to keep clean. It attracts dirt and dust. It will turn your hinge pins black.— Answered by shirlock homes WD-40 can wash dirt into a bike chain, ruining the chain and taking out the gears along with it. My sister works at a music store. She said a dad ruined his kid's $800 clarinet by using WD-40 on "the squeaky part" — and no, that isn't the entire clarinet. Serious cubers will lube their cubes with Jigaloo, CRC silicone, or even vaseline. They will point and laugh at noobs who use WD-40, which contains petroleum distillates (paint thinner) that can melt and seize a cube.

Crazy, I know, but noobs keep doing it. Think you know where WD-40 should never go? Leave your suggestion in the comments or submit it at Stack Exchange, an expert knowledge exchange on diverse topics from software programming to cycling to scientific skepticism.harley davidson for sale in rochester nyThread locking compounds, sometimes referred to as 'Loctite' despite it being a brand name, is an adhesive that can be applied to the threads of a fastener to keep it from loosening over time from vibration or shifting parts. silvermans motorcycle jacketsThis is especially useful on smaller bolts that require a relatively low torque such as rotor bolts, but can be put to use anywhere that a bolt can repeatedly loosen even though it has been properly torqued. enclosed motorcycle trailer for sale in columbia sc

Lubricating a fastener with grease, the swear-by for cycling mechanics, is done to allow a bolt or nut to be precisely torqued, and to ease removal down the road. Grease and thread locking compounds should never be mixed. While there are other ways to keep bolts from coming loose - cotter pins, lock washers and even safety wire - none of those methods are suitable for use on our expensive and lightweight mountain bikes. bmw motorcycle parts munichThread locking compound is a thixotropic fluid, which means that its properties change under certain circumstances. motorcycles for sale derry nhFor most types of thread locker, especially the blue colored version that is used on bicycle parts, this refers to a lack of oxygen that allows the fluid to set once the fastener has been tightened down to the correct torque. motorcycle helmet shops sheffield

It is best to allow the locking compound a full 24 hours to fully set, although it will dry sooner than that. Medium strength Loctite is most often blue in color and can be used on many places on a mountain bike to keep bolts from coming loose. red wing boots murray kyIt is thought of as being 'removable' in that it shouldn't require excessive leverage or heat to break free, and requires roughly 115 in/lb of torque to loosen a typical bike-part fastener. It is available in a squeeze bottle with a needle tip that allows you to apply it only where needed, but it can also be bought in a tube, similar to a glue stick, that is great for applying to places where you don't want it to run onto other surfaces (). Blue thread lock is ideally used on any steel fastener that has repeatedly loosened despite having having been tightened to the recommended torque. Safety is a primary reason for thread locking compounds, and international standards specify that brake rotor and caliper mounting hardware are treated with it so there is little if any chance of an improperly torqued fitting rattling loose.

Same goes for shock mountain hardware or any threaded fitting on a rotating part. Thread locking compound is also the go-to for press-in or threaded parts that tend to develop creaks over time (). Thread locker is available in different compounds and strengths that are usually color coded, although most are not suitable for use on a bike: red thread locker requires 230 in/lb to loosen and should be thought of as permanent, meaning that it will likely require a large leverage tool to remove the bolt. There is really no reason to be using the red colored compound anywhere on your bike. Green thread locker is best at penetrating into nooks and crannies, and can be used to hold sealed bearings in place () if the bearing bore is oversized. The green compound needs roughly 90 in/lb to crack lose, and should be used very sparingly. Although blue thread locker can be put to use on many places, there are some where it shouldn't be applied. It should be avoided when working with titanium bolts, especially when they are being threaded into a dissimilar metal, such as steel or aluminum.

Anti-seize is your best bet here because it will prevent galvanization, allowing you to easily remove the fastener down the road. We would also recommend that you skip using Loctite on aluminum bolts as well for the same reason, but it can also make removing fragile aluminum hardware difficult, leading to rounded or broken off heads. Here are some other places that shouldn't see thread locker:• Chain ring bolts, especially aluminum versions ()• Most crank set bolts ()• Pedal threads ()• Axle threads on either front or rear thru-axles ()• Any small hardware that hasn't repeatedly loosened () : Visit to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes Huck Norris Tire Insert - Review Downhill Secret Revealed: Flat Tire Defender Foam Inserts - First Look 2017 Intense Tracer - Review Inside Hope Technology: Following The Manufacturing Process Fails of the Month - January Race Prepping a Fox 40 Markus Stöckl Hits 167.6 km/h on a Mountain Bike - Video