SV1000 (2003 - 2005) review © CMG Ltd 2016. This website is owned and published by Crash Media Group Limited.     Motobriiz Wind Powered Automatic Chain Oiler Lubricate your chain as you ride. No electrical power or connection to any motorcycle system is required and there are no moving parts to wear out. Only 1 left in stock Wind is collected by the inlet tube to pressurize the reservoir. The oil flows through the outlet, which is located higher than the natural level. The oil is delivered through an optimized flow restriction device to your chain. Oil does not fill the discharge tube,it simply trickles down the walls of the tubing at a very controlled rate while your motorcycle is moving. The oil flows into an applicator, which transfers a thin film of oil directly to the inside radius of your chain. No adjustments are required, because the flow naturally changes with the speed of your motorcycle.You could do a lap of Australia on your bike and never have to bother about oiling the chain with a Cameleon Chain Oiler worth $239 (plus postage) from Australian Motorcycle Headlight Protectors.

Oiling your chain is messy, it’s a nuisance having to carry chain lube with you and it’s something easily forgotten after a long ride when your chain is hot and best suited to oiling. The Canadian-made Cameleon Chain Oiler will take care of all these problems with its perpetual chain lubrication system. But even better, the system will save you money by lengthening the life of your chain by up to four times and avoiding leaving you stranded with a seized link or broken chain. The oiler basically consists of a reservoir containing enough oil to last for 6000km, an electronic pumping system and a tube to gravity feed oil on to your chain. It takes less than an hour to install and the only visible part is the clear tube running down on to the chain guard. The rest fits neatly underneath your seat. The only maintenance is to fill up the reservoir tube with Cameleon Chain Oil every time you do an engine oil change. The price from Australian Motorcycle Headlight Protectors, now situated in East Gosford on the Central Coast of NSW, includes freight within Australia’s major cities.

Freight to remote areas will cost more. Their website is currently being upgraded and if you have any technical difficulties with ordering, contact them by email.axo motocross boots for sale Home made Chain Oiler, 5 Euros!avon motorcycle tires fitment OK, here it is! motorcycle helmets north miamiit was a doddle to make, and it works pretty good, more testing to be done in Daylight tomorrow.....motorcycles for sale near conway ar here are some pics of the various steps. motorcycle tires niagara falls ny

took me less than 1 hour start to finish (ok I had a break for lunch to let the glue dry, but actual build time less than an Hour) enjoy!women's chippewa motorcycle boots bottle cable tied in position, awaiting addition of tubing, 250ml bottle, would prefer 150ml or 100mlmotorcycle helmet in gta 5 above: there is a piece of plastic lolly stick jammed between the cable ties to separate them and keep them firmly in the end of the tube, i am just enlarging the hole to allow better oil flow here you can see the piece of brazing rod i used ( you could use copper wire or a bit of Coathanger) this makes it easier to position the end "feeders", the inside edges of the "feeders, which are made from cable ties are grooved with a Stanley knife blade , 3 grooves lengthwise, to aid with the flow of oil to the tip

Above: the tap here is in the "ON" position, if the lever was straight up, it would be in the "OFF" position In the above picture Inoticed the end was too near the sprocket so then adjusted it, that is why there is wire inside the tubing, so it can be bent and keeps its shape..... Note: Oil is visible just a drip, right on the very Tip, the grooves are working! Nice work Martyn - you might remember this thread about the same topic: So, one question - why do all of these systems go to the back sprocket and not the (nearer) front drive sproket? thats why this is here......... Originally Posted by backofbeyond Thats why I fitted this little tap!.....no more drips unless i forget to turn it off.......and knowing myself that will be 90% of the time! Originally Posted by juddadredd I think drips are inherent in my design because of the long tube that goes from the reservoir to the sprocket. In martyn's design the tap is located close to the sprocket and will probably have minimal drip from the tube (if he remembers to turn it off!).

His bike has the stand on the same side as the chain so that when parked the sprocket leans away from the tyre and drips go on the floor, mine unfortunately has the chain on the other side so drips fall onto the tyre. The oil for these drips come from tube drainage and with a long tube going from the reservoir it takes a fair while to drain. Using one of martyn's taps would have been a good idea but I made the oiler out of scrap lying around in the garage and didn't find a tap. I can see the principal behind your "block it with a bubble" idea, I'm just not clear on how I could make it work in practice. I need a rethink! Backof beyond, after todays run out, im going to change my design! to front sprocket oiling like yours........ 1.) the oils oversplash on rear tyre caused some amazing sideways nearly brown trouser moments today! 2.) when I fiddled with the end of the tube to try to move it away from the sprocket it made the problem worse. 3.) I think I am going to go back to the drawing board, remove the lot and redesign with brackets rather than cable ties and a better oil delivery system.

for safetys sake if nothing else! Originally Posted by Martynbiker It's not clear from the pics but I can't see anything in your system that limits the rate at which the oil flows down the tube. I jammed a piece of plastic with a 2mm ? hole (mig welder liner) at the end of the clear tubing to limit the flow rate. This makes sure the oil doesn't flood out. The reservoir end also has a 3mm outlet to limit the flow rate down the tube. These holes are really too small for my normal 90 grade gear oil in the winter but fine in the summer. You're only looking for a drip a minute or so. What it comes down to, I suppose, is how much time and effort you want to put into these things. I did consider knocking up a needle valve based control system on the lathe using carburettor jets / needles and calibrating it against temperature and oil viscosity but it would have been easier just to go and buy one - secondhand scottoilers come up regularly on ebay. An electronically controlled pumped system is probably the way to go and there are several designs to crib on the internet (mainly in german for some reason), some of them looking like they cost more than the bike they are fitted to.

I tried to convince my son that building one of them would be perfect for his gcse electronics project - particularly as he was doing german gcse as well, but I think he saw through the ploy. The little chrome "TAP" is actually an aquarium air-flow adjuster, used to adjust the rate of air flowing to an air-stone from a pump....... therefore it SHOULD also limit the flow of oil. I just need to practice how far to turn it. please send the step by step guide. (is it completed yet?) Im the type that likes to forget/lazy to oil my chain Had my DID snapped in the midlle of a back road, during a 400km ride, Luckily I was still in the area where public buses & workshops were stillman without beard is like porridge without salt": Ned Kelly Originally Posted by Osama Radzi Hiya Osama, still a few pics to add and some more revised instructions ( such as try using thicker oil if you value your ass/bike/sanity) will get it finished before the weekend, if you PM me your email addy I will send it off to you ASAP.