You have a to have a process to do this? Why can’t I just put the front wheel in and tighten everything up to spec? I get this all the time from street riders who just don’t realize that there is a set way to put a front wheel back in to avoid the forks binding and creating brake chatter. This is a substantially overlooked maintenance item so let’s get things clarified with the video link below. Correct front wheel alignment process That being said, there are a couple of variations that need to be taken into account:- 1. Bikes that have calipers with no locating dowels on the fork leg or axle casting must follow the following additional step:- put the bike in the air and set the caliper bolts finger tight and spin the front wheel and lock the brakes onto the rotor. Hold the brake pressure while someone else torques the brake bolts in place. Once done, release brake pressure. 2. If you have calipers with locating dowels while the bike is in the air, spin the front wheel and stop the wheel rotation using the front brakes.

Torque the bolts to the brake calipers before you lower the front wheel to the ground. Some axles also have machined grooves on them so you can see if the fork leg is binding as it should line up with that groove.Connecting to the iTunes Store.... We are unable to find iTunes on your computer.Skip to main content © CMG Ltd 2016. This website is owned and published by Crash Media Group Limited.     by Kristian #562 (20/10/01) Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ. Last Updated: 18 Feb 2007, by Winter #1935 There a number of common sources of Noise on the F650. If you're looking for Vibrations see this FAQ. The table below should help guide you to your noise. However if you can not find it based on the table, read through all the noises. For Engine Noises: To help you identify WHERE it is coming from, grab a good solid screwdriver, put the tip on the Engine where you THINK the noise is coming from and the handle against

your ear, like stethoscope. Move the tip around until you determine themotorcycle shops in gravesend These are some of the questions you might get asked, or some of themotorcycle clothing hampton nh things to think about to identify and fix the noise:motorcycle leathers salem oregonMmmmm......need some more description. Is it a deep knock, like clonk...clonk etc, OR is more of a tap....tap? What side of theand is it up the top OR lower down on the motor? Slowly over time......after you did something with the bike, like after a mad 3 day desert race :-) Has it ever run low on oil.......some prior history may help the diagnosis. IF its lower down and a heavy clonk noise.....then look for a sad

big end bearing.......these can make a very terminal sounding noise at low revs with open throttle (loaded engine) If it higher up in the middle of the motor with not so much of a heavy clonk.....it could be piston slap (loose piston to bore If is more of a rattle then look at the cam chain tensioner setup. IT MAY also be a balancer shaft problem too. I would start with doing an oil pressure check with a master gauge......that is, remove the pressure sensor and connect a separate mechanics test pressure gauge. on road and make sure that pressures are in spec. Next........drain the oil and check for metal pieces on the drain plug and also metallic sparkle in the oil itself, wash the oil filter out in clean petrol and look for residue from the filter. Remove the cam cover and check the chain for slack, look down inside to see if you can see any wear/broken cam chain Other things to try / consider: If you can not find your noise or a similar noise in the list, and the

other suggestions do not help identify the noise... ask in the Forums. When you do, provide the following information: But please, please, please - DON'T FORGET to tell us how you fixed theBecause then you help others. You know the hardest thing about working on the NoisesYou spend the next 1000kms listening for every little tick, The art of motorcycle engineering Smarter banking for engineers When I apply the front brake I can feel a "shudder" or "pulse" through the front wheel, fork and handlebars. It's faster when I'm travelling faster and slower when I'm moving slower. I assume there's something wrong with the rim, causing the brake pads to catch (rim braking, not discs). But I've checked the rim carefully and can't see anything. There isn't any ledges and I can't see that parts of the rim are wider than other parts (although I haven't checked with calipers or anything since I don't have any). It's happened since the wheels were new. They're Charge Dish wheels.

I've used multiple different brake pads and they have all had this problem (to varying degrees). How can I diagnose and fix this problem? Updates based on comments: The bike is an SE Lager, about 18 months old. I'm running Conti GP4000S 23mm tyres. I've spun the wheel and eyeballed the rim/pad clearance. I can't see any noticeable bulge, but I'm assuming that's what's causing the problem. It's a large frame (I'm 6'3") Thanks for the suggestions. If there is a bulge in the rim can I fix it, or do I need to replace it? By your description, it totally seems to be some slight irregularity on rim surface, be it a bent spot, some fluctuation around valve-hole or seam, or some slight variation on total width. I had the exact problem you described three times: after hitting a pothole too hard once, and after my bike fell off a moving car's bike rack thereafter. Both times, it was some rim irregularity, and it was on the same rim. First time, I kept riding and the very rim wearing out with braking eventually solved the problem.

Second time, I had to put a new rim, because the "pulse" was very intense and dangerous (fork flexing and all). The third time I had this problem, I had a defective rim which eventually cracked on the side, and I felt a progressive worsening of this "pulse". AND HERE GOES THE SOLUTION! I noticed this irregularity caused an assymmetric MONLIGHT REFLECTION because I was riding at night, leaned the bike to the side, and was marevelled by the beautiful circle of moonlight on the shiny breaking surface of the rim. But there was a bent spot, pretty much invisible to direct observation. So, I propose you go with your bike close to a shadowed wall on a very sunny day, and use the braking surface of the rim to reflect sunlight on this shadowed wall, optionally letting the wheel turn slowly, and repeating the procedure with the other side of the rim. For sure, if there is a bent spot, the slightest one, you will see it. You can increase the distance to the wall to make the effect more obvious, and you should expect some natural assymmetry.

The "abnormal" thing to watch would be a very localized spot of aberrant light distrtibution. EDIT: suppose you found the micro-bent spot, a good way to wear it away is to put not-so-expensive brake pads, go to your favourite muddy downhill track in a wet day (preferrably one where the weels completely sink in the mud), and use the brakes mercyless. Your rim will begin to shine!! (well, you could always turn the bike upside down, spin the wheel, close your eyes, and literally feel variations on rim surface with your bare fingers. It is not so sensitive as the sunlight method. Do it with caution!) As Jason S said it could be your headset. Engage the front brake while standing by your bike and try to move your bike forwards and backwards. Do you feel play in the front end then? If so it's likely to be the headset. Some general things to check for: Wheel brake surfaces are clean (I use some automotive brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down if I accidentally get oil on them)

Brake pads have some pad left (make sure they aren't too worn) Brake pads are angled slightly as they contact the rim Sometimes I've also taken a metal file and rake it over the brake pad surface a bit to scuff them up. Not sure if that would help your situation though. Check that the wheels are true. Like ChrisW mentioned, angle the pad slightly to make sure the brake pad doesn't touch the wheel all at once to have more leeway in the rim. My home made trueing stand consists of the bikes frame and nylon wire ties (zip tie). By attaching the wire tie to the fork or the seat stay it can be trimmed so it is about 1/4 inch longer than the gap between the wheel and frame. If you rotate the tie you can get it to just touch the wheel. Rotate the wheel and check the gap or deflection of the wire tie as the wheel rotates,if you set the tie so it is at the edge of the rim you can also check for an out of round condition.Of course trueing the wheel gets more involved.

Another potential explanation is the oscillating change in brake cable tension during braking. This problem is more common on big frames. I'm 6'4" and I've experienced this on several bikes. Cantilever brakes can exaggerate this issue. When you brake your fork is bending backwards in response to the force being placed on it. This can cause the cable tension to slacken slightly and the brake caliper to open causing a slip. This in turn allows the fork to return to normal and cable tension increases. On one bike I owned changing from a Avid shorty 6 to a wide Kore brake eliminated this problem. Using a more aggressive toe-in on the pads can help too. Since your bike has a caliper brake you may want to make sure that your brake housing ferrels are still in good shape. Basically anything that might introduce slack into the braking system or subvert the compression resistance of the housing should be checked.Browse other questions tagged brakes wheels or ask your own question.